History of the Beaverkill
by Marian Tobey

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Quite far away—perhaps 35 or 40 miles from the hamlet of Beaverkill in a small town called Big Indian, is a tiny rivulet, that ripples cheerfully along, growing gradually wider as it wanders on its way—cutting a gravelly bed for itself after awhile and with many crooks and turns reaching the town of Hardenburgh. Here it is a very noticeable stream, as it flows for miles through various little towns and villages. Miniature falls, rocks and deep pools mark its way. And wonderfully sparkling water—the home of thousands of speckled trout of various species. A bit of the valley through which this stream flows is coveted by hundreds of fishermen for it is the valley of the justly famous Beaverkill!

In the early days, before trout fishing was such a universal sport, the settlers along the valley did not stress to any great extent the advantages that were theirs because of their ownership of land bordering the Beaverkill. At that time the stream was used for various purposes besides angling for trout. There were several sawmills—the largest of which was owned and operated by the Jones Brothers—John and Robert. And Beaverkill itself boasted a tannery.

Lumber was plentiful, and many trees were cut down simply for the bark, and logs were left to decay in their own good time. In those days if one got ten dollars per thousand for sound hemlock lumber, he was doing well. And though many logs were left where they were cut down, there was still much lumbering done. In the spring when high water came, thousands of feet were rafted down the river to Philadelphia, where better prices were obtained, and the cost of getting them there was almost nil. One of the most prominent men to do this sort of thing was Mr. Thomas Davidson, who owned the farm where Mr. Jay Davidson lived for so many years. Mr. Thomas Davidson was a Scotsman, son of a shepherd, and they—his father and himself—emigrated to this country when much of it was forest primeval. Rude cabins, pole beds, pine bough mattresses were a foregone conclusion. Their love for sheep came with them. And they always kept a flock. Another prominent man associated with Mr., Thomas Davidson, was Mr. James Murdock, who, besides being a lumberman, established one of the first-boarding houses along the Beaverkill above Shin Creek, as Lew Beach was then called. Boarding-houses were few fifty years ago. Two others were prominent at that time—one kept by Mr. and Mrs. Flint, and one by Mr. Ransom Weaver.

At that time the nearest railroad station was Callicoon on the Erie Railroad. A drive of 40 miles on long buck-board drawn by two horses over what would now be called impassable roads, was braved by many a fisherman and hunter, who felt well repaid for all the trouble.The O. & W. Railroad was built about 48 years ago. The first club to be formed was at Balsam Lake, which lies in the town of Hardenburgh, about 30 miles up the valley from what is now Livingston Manor (then Morsston). Then the Salmo Fontinalis Club was started on the Leal Farm. It was about fifty years ago or more that the Rev. Thomas K, Beecher, of Elmira, N. Y., and his brother James heard of the lake which is now called “Beecher Lake”, then in the heart of the forest primeval, and went there on a fishing expedition. Thomas K. cut down the first tree, using the lower part for a post of their tent. He and his brother afterwards bought the lake together with about 400 acres of land, and held it for a number of years. Afterward it was sold to Mr. Coykendall, at one time owner of the Delaware and Ulster Railroad, and who also owned Alder Lake, which is up Turnwood way. The mail came three times per week by stage, and the men who drove the stage were the Jones brothers—John and Robert. They also did a thriving business in their sawmill, having taken advantage of a point in the river where there are beautiful falls—the most picturesque on the Beaverkill. The force of the water there furnished power for the mill. In the year 1886, Mr. and Mrs. Jay Davidson moved from Roscoe to Beaverkill on the farm, which was afterwards theirs. In that same year and month Miss Martha Stone of Elmira, N.Y., came to Beaverkill, bought Clear Lake, and to the ridge of the mountain back of it, and built a little home there. Then was started the first boarding house between Livingston Manor and Lew Beach, or between Roscoe and Lew Beach—the first in Beaverkill. Lew Beach was renamed after one of our representatives.

The following year, the Ellsworths, who had kept the post office for many years, and who had a commodious, house, took a few boarders; and so the boarding business was started in that portion of the valley where the Beaverkill post office was located.

The Davidsons opened their boarding house around the year 1892 or 1893. Many changes have come since the small beginnings of forty odd years ago. The small Club “Salmo Fontinalis” on the Leal farm has been swallowed up by a very large one, of which Mr. More, of New York City, was at one time president. And which at first had its headquarters at the home of Mrs. Towse, which is a beautifully built boarding house some distance up the river from Lew Beach. Since then this club has built a fine clubhouse on the William Sliter farm. The members of this club bought most of the upper part of the river this side of Turnwood.

The “Weaver” farm was bought by young Jay Gould, and held by him for some years. It has now been sold to some other wealthy people who have built a fine summer home. The “Flint” place was bought by Mr. Knapp, a member of the large club. The old “Murdock” farm was bought by a family from New York City, by the name of Bourke. The son, a doctor, practices in Livingston Manor. Along down the valley and nearer Lew Beach, was the Sprague boarding-house established nearly fifty years ago by Mr. and Mrs. Ed. R. Sprague, and held by Mrs. Sprague until a very few years ago. The “Royal Voorhies” home was used for a boarding-house for many years, by descendants of that family, but is now the home of another club. The next place to be bought for a club is the “‘Barnhart” house, which is opposite the old “Ellsworth” place, and which once was the post office. The “Davidson” place is in other hands now, and Clear Lake Cottages, have changed ownership. The “John Cammer” place is now the home of a club. In Beaverkill now there are only two people who were here forty years ago. Nearly every home has changed ownership. Many cottages and bungalows have sprung up whose owners spend only their summers here.

As I look back upon the people whom I met in the old days, I remember many of them as most interesting. There are those who stand vividly in my memory, some for their peculiarities, others for their sterling qualities. Few were educated according to the standards of the present day—but many were keen, shrewd businessmen and women, and kindly neighbors. Among the women, the name of Emily Bulkley stands out prominently. To her we owe the ability to carry on our little Beaverkill Church for she left us her farm. And the income from this pays a little over half of the salary of our minister. But we of the valley who knew them then, know them no more. Mr. and Mrs. Flint; the Jones brothers; Mrs. Dusebury who settled on the farm now belonging to Mrs. Towse; Mr. Ed. Sprague: Mr. and Mrs. William Hardie—all have passed into the Great Beyond! Some years ago Mr. and Mrs. Ed. Sprague celebrated their golden wedding anniversary, and at that party Mrs. Hardie wore a black silk basque, which she had worn fifty years before when the Spragues were married. Notably among the older men were Mr. James Murdock, Mr. Henry W. Ellsworth and Mr. Thomas Davidson. Men with wonderfully keen minds, and good business ability in their respective lines. The tannery, together with a general store and post office were run by Mr. Ellsworth. When I came to Beaverkill, they were elderly men, and the younger ones were taking their places.

Notably among these was Mr. Jay Davidson. His father, Mr. Thomas Davidson conferred a lasting benefit on the people of Beaverkill when he gave them the land for the cemetery and church. The very carefully worded deed of this gift has made it possible for the little church to maintain its rights against all would-be assailants.

Many curious incidents occur in the life of any community, but perhaps none more so than among the hundreds of fishermen who throng the valley during the all-important fishing season. There have been writers and actors—singers and artists. All these have found the attractions of the Beaverkill and the long valley up to Hardenburgh an incentive to buy and build—almost palaces—and plain little bungalows. Wealthy men have spent money without stint. One of these was Mr. Dundas, who built what is known as the “Castle”. It is said that he copied as nearly as possible an old castle in Scotland and spent $150,000 making this copy. It proves to some extent the theory of evolution, when one looks back at the beginning of that castle.

Forty years ago or more, Joe Cammer, who we all remember, owned a farm along the Beaverkill which included the site of the Castle. Mr. Cammer boarded a few fishermen each summer. they came up from New York City and surrounding towns. Among these were Mr. Frank Livingston Clark, and Mr. Cass Gilbert, a well known architect of that time. These men with three others, conceived the idea of building a little log cabin on the Cammer property. With this end in view they bought a little plot of land on the bank of the Beaverkill, where a wonderful view up the river was obtained; and the log cabin was built, with a fine large fireplace of stone. After a year or two, Mr. Gilbert bought out the other gentlemen, enlarged the cabin, and brought his wife there. He bought more land and made many improvements. Then he in turn sold out to a Mr. Sternbach, of New York City for $15,000. During Mr. Sternbach’s occupation of the place, he spent another $15,000, outside and inside. Nearly all land in the region was swallowed up by him. Then having failed in his New York business, he sold to Mr. Dundas, whose daughter now holds the property. Beyond this property, down the river toward Rockland is another club with its headquarters on the B. F. Hardenburgh farm. This is one of the oldest on the Beaverkill. It is called “The Fly Fisherman’s Club”. It was established when many men fished with worms and other bait besides. For many years there has been a growing feeling against any bait, save flies. The etiquette of the stream now demands them.

There is one other club that I have failed to mention—that belonging to Mr. James Marble—established on the “John Cammer” farm. This is a very prosperous club, with good fishing advantages.

The roads up and down the valley are now in very good condition owing to the almost universal use of automobiles. Our neighbors are now fifteen to twenty minutes away.

In looking back over the years of my living in Beaverkill, I find it altogether a new community. But the everlasting hills are here, and the beautiful, winding river -- and the little mountain lake nestled in the side of Mt. McGuckin. These are here! And no matter what alien feet may tread the roads and pathways, nor what changes may yet occur, they will always give happy thoughts to the generations that follow.

M. W. S. TOBEY, circa 1930

 

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