We
came to the Beaverkill
on weekends and summers
until my father had a
health problem in 1945.
He was working late hours
and traveling a lot for
Raymond Loewy, a design
firm in New York City,
and had a physical collapse.
Upon his recovery and
because of some wonderful
coincidences, he and
my mother decided to make
our camp in the Beaverkill
our permanent home. This
was quite a radical decision
for the time, when the
city was considered the “land
of opportunity.” People
asked my father why
would he want to bury
himself way out in
the sticks – and
whatever would you
do
there?
My
mother’s parents, Frank and Josephine Keener, owned the Antrim Lodge, a small hotel in nearby Roscoe and this gave my father a place to stay during the renovation of our camp into a home.
He
took a position with the
New York City Board of
Water Supply to design
the roadways that went
around the Pepacton Reservoir
which was being built
to serve New York City.
1947 was the year that
my father began this new
adventure and it was not
until August of 1948 that
we were able to call it
home.
I
began the first grade
with Miss Pomeroy at
Roscoe Central School
in September of 1948.
My sister Barbara, called “Bonnie”,
stayed at home with our
mother.
Bonnie
was four years younger
than I. Bridget Ann called “Bridie”, our younger sister, didn’t arrive until one late night in September 1954. She is twelve years younger than I, and consequently has different stories to tell of the 1960s Beaverkill life. Our little family of Benedicts in the late 1940s consisted of Tom and Dorothy, Bonnie and Susie (me), and my father’s Aunt Hannah, in her late seventies, an accomplished artist, and on weekends, my father’s sister Barbara who would join us as often as she could.
There was no electricity until 1950. We lived with the simple but charming light of oil and kerosene lamps, and an ever-faithful Delco generator to run our appliances. We did have a telephone that was there from the time our place was a camp. There was never a television until our friend Russ Hodge erected a cable tower for everyone to connect to in the late 1960s.
The
dirt road in front of
our house had grass growing
down its middle and was
often impassable because
of landslides that blocked
the road. Even with the
help of our Willys Jeep
we were sometimes marooned
for days at a time. Until
the trees and mud were
cleared away, we were
virtually shut off from
the outer world. We loved
to have these reprieves
from school, and we always
found wonderful things
to do at home or in the
woodlands. The river was
forbidden to us when it
was flooding season.
Our Delco system was sometimes a great mystery to my father and he often had to rely on the expert mechanical advice of Art Parrish, who lived about a mile or so below Hodge’s barn. Art and his wife Goldie did odd jobs for us, fixing things and doing occasional household work.
When
we lived in Westchester
County, Art and Goldie
would always open up our
camp and light a fire
in the fireplace to make
a warm welcome for us
after the long drive.
They were definitely a
fascination to Bonnie
and me. We followed them
everywhere they went when
they were at our place.
It was mainly because
of their peculiar eccentricities
that we were so enthralled,
especially with Art who
was a wizard with mechanical
things but who never,
ever bathed. According
to Goldie, he would go
down to the river on a
warm day in July and have
a yearly, ceremonial wash.
He had a beautiful brown
patina to his skin and
a distinctive odor of
crankcase oil and kerosene.
I can remember little
three year old Bonnie
just a few steps behind
him with her hands clasped
behind her back, trying
to walk a loping walk
just as he did.
It
was still possible to
farm with horses and oxen
in those early days and
farmers could survive
with just a few milking
cows, no tractor and very
few luxuries. Our friends
Carl and Pauline Gray
and their two daughters
lived up at the head of
Pelnor Hollow when we
came to our camp in the
early days. We have some
family movies of Carl
working his farm with
a team that was made up
of an ox and a bull. The
bull was kept in line
with a chain-type whip,
and the team seemed to
behave quite well.
The Grays moved to Meridale, near Delhi, in the 1950s where they farmed with modern machinery. I was always glad to have experienced their simple but fine life. We were able to reconnect with them when my husband and our children moved to Cherry Valley in 1970.
Our
move to the Beaverkill
was in many ways a dream-come-true
for my father who had
so many boyhood memories
and acquaintances from
the days when his mother
and father and their family
came to fish and hunt
at the camp.
He
told us that when he was
about twelve years old
he came to spend Christmas
vacation with his friend
Jim Sprague who met his
train in Roscoe in the
middle of a blizzard with
a horse-drawn sleigh,
and they set off for a
wild ride to the trout
club that was just up
the river from our place
where the Spragues were
then caretakers. This
property was later owned
by James Marble and still
later by The Clear Lake
Corporation.
He
loved this rugged life
of living independently
and always fancied he
would like to try it when
he was an adult. He admired
farming and although he
did always have a beautiful
and bountiful vegetable
garden of great renown,
his attempts at animal
farming were less than
successful. Chicken farming
and egg selling were slightly
successful, but later
attempts at beef cattle
raising were disastrous,
which would be for another
story at another time.
So he returned to his
major source of income – design and architecture – which were much more lucrative.
Our
mother had lived on Staten
Island as a young child
and later moved to Roscoe
when her parents the Keeners
inherited the proprietorship
of the Central House which
then became the Antrim
Lodge, the well known
fishermen’s watering hole and place of good food and comfortable lodging. When she finished high school, Mother returned to Staten Island to live with her cousin Margaret and her family while she went to secretarial school and later worked until she married my father. The newlyweds lived for a few years in Crestwood near the city until they moved to the Beaverkill.
In
those early days of our
life in and near Roscoe,
the Keeners were a constant
for us. We would often
walk from the school to
the Antrim and make ourselves
ice cream sodas under
the careful eye of our
grandmother or grandfather,
spilling and slurping
as we bantered with our
cousins the Flemings,
and later the Burys. My
mother was happy to be
near her sisters and parents,
especially because I don’t believe she was totally content with leaving the city life behind. Although she loved the beauty of the natural world, I think it bewildered her a bit and perhaps intimidated her. She was a ‘people’ person and loved to entertain and did so with grace and style. I can scarcely remember a time when the outdoors was enticing to her except for an occasional sun bath or lawn party. Mother was always an admirer of my father’s garden and its produce and did an admirable job of putting food by, and cooking wonderful dinners, but she had a powerful fear of snakes that I believe kept her from exploring the outside.
There
was always the river.
Moving, changing, flooding
and flowing, it shaped
our lives. Sometimes the
Beaverkill was quiet and
warm on the days that
were sunny, and on stormy
days it was cold and cruel.
On most evenings my father
would take us for walks
up or down the river road
studying the mood of the
river and its fish and
what flies were hatching.
We learned so much from
Father’s wealth of knowledge of everything, from the natural world, to politics, and the aesthetics of art and design, music and much more. We played on the ferny banks of the river while he fished our lower pool for the beautiful trout with their silvery, spotted backs. We built little secret forts and hunted for dogtooth violets (trout lilies) and so many other splendid wild flowers hidden in the grassy grove below our house. We rode our bikes everywhere exploring and playing in the brooks and streams.
When
we were older we swam
under the covered bridge
at the Beaverkill Campsite
or in the bridge pool
at Craigie Clair. We built
dams in front of our house
to try to make our own
deep swimming hole or
we teetered across Mr.
Marble’s swinging suspension footbridge which spanned the river about a quarter of a mile from our house. Sometimes I even sat on the bridge in the middle span reading a book and watching the trout swimming way beneath me in the clear waters that rolled endlessly over the multicolored stones. We would often cross that bridge with my Aunt Barbara on our way to walk the steep path to Clear Lake where we spent many of our summer days.
It
was on the halcyon, laurel-laden
shores of the lake that
we dreamed and lolled
our endless summers away.
It was there that we were
taught to swim by my father,
Aunt Barbara and by our
dear friend Mrs. Foote
who instructed us from
mid-lake while she effortlessly
kept herself afloat holding
an elegant parasol, never
raising so much as one
ripple. I couldn’t figure out how she managed to do that, and I would watch her intently, trying to catch her splashing about, but always she was there undisturbed.
She
enchanted me the very
first moment I saw her.
Her clothes were most
often diaphanous and flowing,
always vintage, or from
a forgotten era, and she
moved with an elegant
grace that was totally
bewitching to me. When
I first became her friend,
her hair was already a
shock of white and her
complexion until she was
in her eighties was flawless
and soft pink in color.
She was like a beautiful
fairy godmother in those
days. Always a bit provocative
and insightful, she knew
how to stimulate a conversation
and never failed to do
so.
Jessie
Foote was a special guide
and teacher for me as
a child and later as an
adult. She had a home
on a hillside above the
Beaverkill near Clear
Lake. My sister Bonnie
and I played on the lawns
of her magical home, an
old Christian monastery
converted to a residence.
It was from this amazing
woman that I learned nature
and forest lore of plants,
flowers, animals, as well
as poetry and literature.
We discussed philosophy
and ideas on her grand
verandah where the beautiful
columbine grew all around.
We used to perform plays
in her great-room by the
fireplace, and ballet
on her lawn under the
lilacs and amidst the “fairy handkerchiefs” (dewy spider webs in the grasses). She gave us little piano lessons when we visited, in the charming billiard room.
My
sister and I spent the
night at her place once.
I remember that she came
to pick us up one afternoon
in her 1929 LaSalle convertible
with a rumble seat. She
ceremoniously bundled
us into the rumble seat
with goggles and scarves
and blankets, and we wound
our way along the banks
of the Beaverkill to her
beautiful home to spend
the weekend. We had a
quiet little supper that
evening, and told stories
and tales. We probably
asked question upon question
until she trundled us
off to our beds. Of course
one of the things that
made an indelible impression
on our fertile minds was
the great toilet that
flushed when you pulled
the chain on the waterbox
way above us on the wall.
I think we must have flushed
and flushed until she
had to ask us to stop.
Sleeping deeply and peacefully,
once our chattering stopped,
we awoke in the early
morning and rose to a
soft summer mist which
covered the entire place
and eventually gave way
to a warm sun-filled day.
After
eating sumptuously of
toast and marmalade by
the fire that morning,
we went down the path
to the lake. It took
us quite awhile to reach
the lake because we found
so many wild flowers
and treasures along the
way. We swam for hours
in the cool green waters,
tried to catch sunfish,
and then filled our bathing
caps with the luscious
blueberries that grew
bountifully by the side
of the lake. It was with
reluctance and contentment
that we returned to our
home. We never forgot
any of those special
moments, ever. Bonnie
and I still talk about
little details of that
experience as though it
were only a few summers
ago.
The
valley was filled with
so many people who were
strong individuals, or
who left lasting impressions
on us. The names of these
people are often still
on the lips of those of
us who love the Beaverkill
and its history.
Dundas
Castle, now the Prince
Hall Foundation, was a
strange mysterious place
to us. It was a forgotten
and unfinished castle
that had only briefly,
if at all, been inhabited
by its builder and then
abandoned for many years
until it was finally purchased
by the Prince Hall Masons
who wanted to use the
vast grounds for recreation
and for a fresh-air summer
camp for city children.
On
the land were two farm
houses, barns, and a caretaker’s home. My family became good friends with the foundation’s first caretakers, Elwood and Edith Medley. They always let us explore the castle and play as long as we wanted, as long as we returned to their house in the afternoon for cookies and tea. We would ride our bikes a mile down the river road to their house, get a note of permission, and then hurry up the hill to play our medieval fantasies in the beautiful but lonely castle. There were turrets and vaulted ceilings and lovely windows that let in a splendid light; it was glorious to explore. The doors were open and we could just let ourselves in and play for hours.
A
large green courtyard
that was totally overgrown
always sparked my fancy
as to how it would have
looked if someone had
landscaped it with flowers
and trees. Instead it
emanated loneliness and
sadness. It was as if
the castle had some kind
of a spell cast upon it,
almost like that of fairy
tales – but we couldn’t discover where the evil witch was living.
We
were never afraid there,
just saddened sometimes
that the work had never
been finished. I always
left with my imagination
spinning wildly. Wondering
what had happened to the
dream of Mr. Dundas and
why had it ended. Anyway,
it certainly was to us
like a big piece of scenery
just plunked down on a
bend in the river, and
every time we passed it
on our way home or to
town, it made us a little
bit dreamy.
I
had one other playmate
beside my sister in those
early years, and that
was the now renowned Emory
Campbell, who came to
live on the Beaverkill
with his mother, who married
Babe Hardenbergh. Emory,
who was a fascinating
friend, and a few years
older than I, knew about
all sorts of things from
animal lore and fishing
tricks, to fixing motors
and how to solve mathematical
problems. He taught me
a great deal and was a
good companion.
He
showed me how to tickle
a fish one day when we
were mucking around in
the binnacle (a backwater
of the river), just about
a quarter of a mile below
our house. On hot days
the fish would try to
stay cool under rocks
and if you were quick
enough you could reach
in and tickle the fish’s belly. This would have the amazing effect of hypnotizing the fish. He would turn belly-up, and you could catch him by hand. And, we did. He was a beautiful trout almost 12 inches long. I was so proud. Emory generously gave him to me to take home to cook for supper. I cleaned him carefully as I had learned to do from my father, and put him in the refrigerator.
When
my father came home, I
led him to the kitchen
to show him my prize and
to tell my fish story.
To my dismay he was NOT
amused and gave me a lecture
on sportsmanship and fishing
with the knowledge and
skill of using flies and
only flies. I was stunned
and I still think it was
a pretty good sport to
catch a fish with your
bare hands. I was never
really thrilled with the
hooks and the lines getting
caught on everything.
I just liked eating trout
and still do whenever
I get the chance.
Often after dinner on winter evenings, we read together from all types of books. Some of them were favorites of our parents, and others were suggested by family and friends. And we had wild tournaments of cards and board games, viciously trying to best each other at Scrabble or Canasta or some other game. Later when Ed Hamerstrom began to play Scrabble, none of us were able to beat him.
On
warmer evenings we usually
sat on our front porch
and listened to the crickets,
or in spring, the “peepers”. We would talk over the day’s events, or not talk at all; we would just listen to what our city friends called the “impressive quiet”. We were often joined by family or friends such as Lucy Ackerly, Newman Wagner, the Whitehills, the Hamerstroms, the Hodges, the Osborns, the Hartwells, the Lambs, Bill Naden, and so many others. Laughing and digesting my mother’s excellent culinary efforts, we watched the weather move in or move out and listened to music or sang songs. Our mother had a very good voice and could sing all the songs of the ’30s and ’40s. She always sang to us and when my husband Peter came on the scene in the ’60s, he accompanied her on the piano, so that she could really live out her fantasy of being a “torch” singer. She still sang in her eighties.
We
talked politics sometimes,
spoke of world events,
and local happenings,
but mostly it was about
the river and its people,
and the nature that embraced
us all. We rhapsodized
about the fall colors
and the spring flowers
and whether the fish were
biting or if the snow
was soon coming.
We
had a very fine life in
the Beaverkill Valley,
not without hardships
and even some tragedies,
but somehow more bearable
whatever came our way,
because of dear friends
and precious surroundings.
The river and the hills
were ever-present to lift
us from ourselves into
the understanding of time
and timelessness. Whenever
I have had occasion to
return to the valley,
I am always comforted
by the thought that although
I may never again live
there, it is truly my
homeland and always will
be.
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